Nous avions 3 options pour cette étape du voyage qui, ultimement, nous menait à Machu Picchu: 1) un séjour prolongé à Cusco et Ollantaytambo; 2) marcher le Chemin de l’Inca (4 jours, 3 nuits et 46km); 3) marcher l’Inca Quarry Trail (3 jours, 2 nuits et 26 km). Nous avons porté notre choix sur l’Inca Quarry Trail car nous n’avions jamais fait de trek de ce genre donc nous avons préféré faire le trek le plus court. De plus, il y a 500 personnes par jour qui se lance sur le Chemin de l’Inca tandis que l’Inca Quarry Trail est très peu fréquenté. Nous étions 6 au départ de ce trek accompagné de 2 guides de montagnes, un autre guide et une équipe de support (2 cuisiniers et 3 autres personnes pour mener les chevaux qui transportent nos équipements et monter les campements). Ce trek est une boucle qui part de Rafq’a pour se terminer à Ollantaytambo (voir carte ci-bas)
Avant le départ sur la piste, nous avons visité un site religieux inca, Mauk’a Iglesia. Le site est en hauteur et déjà, on sent la fatigue. Finalement, c’est le vrai départ vers 10 heures. Première surprise: il fait chaud! La première montée est longue et sur une piste très poussiéreuse. Malgré notre acclimatation à l’altitude, le souffle est court et la chaleur accentue la soif. Disons que la première heure est difficile. Nous rencontrons un premier village où nous prenons une pause bien méritée. Et quel bonheur: une habitante nous vend une bouteille de Gatorade très désaltérante! Nos forces reviennent et nous poursuivons la route. Tout au cours du trajet, les deux guides qui nous accompagnent, Périna et Rolando, s’assurent que chaque participant avance à son rythme. Même si on traîne la patte, il n’y a pas de pression pour aller plus vite.
Après 2h de marche, nous arrivons à une vallée encaissée où poussent des eucalyptus. L’ombre nous fait du bien. Nous découvrons finalement une magnifique chute, Perolniyoc, qui plonge directement d’une falaise de grès orange. Après la chute nous continuons à monter abruptement pour finalement arriver à un premier point de vue qui en vaut la peine. Au loin, une haute montagne au sommet enneigé et en bas, la vallée d’où nous arrivons et qui témoigne de la hauteur que nous avons prise.
Mais il y a encore du chemin à parcourir. Le prochain arrêt d’importance est Q’orimarca, un tambo du XVe siècle récemment rénové par le gouvernement péruvien. Cet arrêt nous permet de reprendre notre souffle avant d’arriver à notre campement. Nous avons faim et le dîner nous attend même s’il est déjà 15h. Un excellent repas composé d’un guacamole, d’une soupe au maïs et d’une assiette avec quiche, salade et riz. Après le repas, c’est le temps d’une sieste bien méritée. La journée fut difficile, mais aussi très exaltante, car les paysages andins sont magnifiques.
We had 3 options for this leg of the trip that ultimately led us to Machu Picchu: 1) an extended stay in Cusco and Ollantaytambo; 2) hike the Inca Trail (4 days, 3 nights and 46km); 3) walk the Inca Quarry Trail (3 days, 2 nights and 26 km). We chose the Inca Quarry Trail because we had never done such a trek so we preferred to do the shorter trek. In addition, there are 500 people a day who embark on the Inca Trail while the Inca Quarry Trail is very uncrowded. There were 6 of us at the start of this trek accompanied by 2 mountain guides, another guide and a support team (2 cooks and 3 other people to lead the horses that transport our equipment and set up camps). This trek is a loop that starts from Rafq’a and ends in Ollantaytambo (see map below)
Before the start on the trek, we visited an Inca religious site, Mauk’a Iglesia. The site is high up and you can already feel the fatigue. Finally, it is the real departure around 10 am. First surprise: it’s hot! The first climb is long and on a very dusty track. Despite our acclimatization to the altitude, the breath is short and the heat accentuates the thirst. Let’s say the first hour was difficult. We come across our first village where we take a well-deserved break. And what happiness: a resident sells us a very thirst-quenching bottle of Gatorade! Our forces return and we continue on the trail. Throughout the journey, the two guides who accompany us, Perina and Rolando, ensure that each participant progresses at their own pace. Even if you’re slower, there is no pressure to go faster.
After 2 hours of walking, we arrive at a deep valley where eucalyptus trees grow. The shade is good for us. We finally discover a magnificent fall, Perolniyoc, which plunges directly from an orange sandstone cliff. After the fall we continue to climb steeply to finally arrive at a first point of view which is worth it. In the distance, a high mountain with a snow-capped top and below, the valley from which we arrive and which testifies to the height we have taken.
But there is still a long way to go. The next major stop is Q’orimarca, a 15th century tambo recently renovated by the Peruvian government. This stop allows us to catch our breath before arriving at our camp. We are hungry and lunch is waiting for us even though it is already 3 p.m. An excellent meal consisting of a guacamole, a corn soup and a plate with quiche, salad and rice. After the meal, it’s time for a well-deserved nap. The day was difficult, but also very exhilarating, because the Andean landscapes are magnificent.
Inca Quarry Trail: 5 heures de marche, 750m de dénivelé, 7km. Campement à 3750m d’altitude. / 5 hours of walking, 750m of elevation gain, 7km. Camp at 3,750m of altitude
[Auteur/Author: Pierre et Suzanne]
Les voyages de Suzanne & Pierre 
I think you made the right choice! What stunning scenery, and seemingly off the tourist track. I hope you have more to share from this trip!
Thanks Sue. Yes, we really think we made the right choice. It was a very difficult hike because of the high altitude but we were happy to have done it. There are 3 more posts coming on this hike.
Looking forward to the next posts!
The views are amazing and thanks for the map, it really helps orient me as I follow along. I am already looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks Jacqui. Glad you enjoyed this first series of images from our trek. The landscape was indeed spectacular though it was a hard day. The second day was the thoughest…more to come.
Des paysages (et une altitude !) à couper le souffle ! Bravo d’avoir eu le courage de vous lancer.
Merci Marion. Je dois avouer qu’il y a eu des moments (surtout la deuxième journée) où nous nous sommes demandés si nous avions bien fait d’entreprendre ce trek mais finalement nous étions bien content de l’avoir fait mais nous avons souffert! Les paysages étaient absolument magnifiques et nous étions seuls au monde.
I’ve not heard of this trail, though I know about the Inca Trail. I have an unused Lonely Planet for Peru on my shelf which is copyright 2000. We were contemplating the Inca Trail then, but did something else instead. I wish we had done it then, because I don’t think I will ever do it now.
Thanks Anabel. The Inca Quarry Trail isn’t offered by many operators which is why isn’t well known. The main differences are that the Inca trail is a real Inca road, it gets hikers to the Machu Picchu site through the Sun Gate and is mostly composed of stairs carved in the rocks which makes it quite a difficult trail especially going down the stairs. The Quarry trail is a loop and you don’t get near Machu Picchu but it climbs at higher altitude (4,450m instead 3,950) and for longer. We walked at between 4,000 and 4,400 for 4 to 5 hours. So each of these trails are interesting but offer different challenges and different landscapes.
I had forgotten how fantastic the mountain scenery was. I hiked the Inca Trail with maybe 10 of us getting off the train that day. Now you say there are 500?! I cannot imagine it! As it was a new thing back then, we did it in 3 days and there were no guides, ponies, facilities, camps, nor villages. We had to carry everything in packs on our backs. I remember the altitude being a killer at about 12,000′ – I couldn’t take more than 20 steps before having to rest to catch my breath. We saw a few campesinos and the children would demand, ‘Dame un dulce!’ A pair of Swiss hikers blew past us on day two, intent on doing the whole trek in two days. They were conditioned hikers, of course, and we were totally out of shape gringoes, lol! My knees were never the same. We spent a day recovering in Agues Calientes soaking our aches away. I’m impressed at your tackling the hike, you are clearly seasoned hikers, bravo!
Thanks Eliza for your note and for sharing your experience with us. We didn’t do the Inca Trail but another one called the Quarry Trail. We are good day hikers but we had never hiked over a 3 days period or in such high altitude (4,450m equate 14,600′). It was tough going and we also had to take multiple breaks. We didn’t run and we were always behind the younger folks that we were part of our group of 6. Though we managed most of the time to be only about 10-15 min behind the faster people which was a point of pride for us.
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Tous ces paysages sont vraiment magnifiques. Il faut être courageux pour un trek mais celui-ci en valait la peine. Merci du partage
Merci Marie. Je ne sais pas si nous avons été courageux ou un peu fou de s’inscrire pour ce trek mais nous sommes bien fiers d’avoir réussi à le faire malgré les difficultés. Les paysages en valaient certainement la peine ainsi que le silence et la tranquilité du lieu.
Fantastique!
Thanks for your note. Glad you enjoyed this series.
The photographs are amazing and I admire your adventure!
l have never seen such dramatic scenery. What a wise choice of route, considering all the crowding on the Inca Trail these days. I love the photos of the roads in the distance zig-zagging up the mountains. I look forward to the continuing account!
Thanks for your note. We were quite satisfied with our choice and though the trek was really difficult we were happy to have done it. The scenery was indeed spectacular.
Amazing adventure, and just the first day! The scenery is stunning, the trek indeed looks difficult. Taking me to places I’ve never heard of that are truly incredible, I love your travel stories and photos!
Thanks Donna. Glad to be able to take you to new places and that you are enjoying our posts.